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Faucet Drips

Most faucet drips stem from worn washers or cartridges—fixable at home with basic tools if you have time and patience.

Start by turning off the water supply under the sink before disassembling the handle and accessing the valve. For compression faucets, replacing the rubber washer is often all it takes—a $1 part and 20 minutes. For cartridge or ceramic-disc faucets, swapping the entire cartridge (around $10–$20) resolves most drips. Make sure you match the faucet brand and model; hardware stores often have cross-reference guides or return policies for mismatched parts.

If you notice mineral buildup around the base or spout, soak disassembled parts in white vinegar for 30 minutes to dissolve calcium deposits. Reassemble with plumber’s grease on O-rings and threads—never overtighten, as this can crack ceramic discs or strip brass threads. Test for leaks with the water on low pressure first. If the drip continues after replacing the cartridge or washer, the valve seat may be corroded, requiring a specialized reaming tool or professional resurfacing.

Be aware that older Boston homes built before the 1980s often use brass or bronze valve seats, which wear differently than modern stainless steel. If your faucet is over 20 years old, consider whether a full replacement might be more reliable—especially in high-traffic kitchens or bathrooms where drips become constant annoyances. If you’re unsure about your skill level or lack tools, calling a pro avoids costly mistakes and water damage.

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Clogged Drain

Clogged Drain

Start with a plunger or enzyme cleaner for minor clogs; persistent or slow drains often signal a deeper blockage needing professional inspection.

No Hot Water

No Hot Water

Check the breaker, pilot light, or thermostat first—electrical or gas issues can mimic failures, but misdiagnosis risks burnt elements or gas leaks.

Leaky Pipe

Leaky Pipe

Even small drips risk mold or structural damage—especially in Boston’s freeze-prone walls or unheated basements where pipes are exposed.

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